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Black Diamond Ultralights Ice Screw Review: Lightweight protection for alpine climbs

Black Diamond Ultralights Ice Screw – Ice Screw Length: 16 cm
4.7
[Multiple Size Options]  Available in 13, 16, 19 and 22 cm for versatile rigging and fit.
[Lightweight Design]  Weights from 74g to 96g minimize load without sacrificing durability.
[High Breaking Load]  10 kN rated strength delivers reliable safety for climbing and load-bearing.
[Forged Aluminum Body]  Express flap uses forged aluminium for superior impact resistance and longevity.
[Aluminium Screw Body]  Durable aluminium screw body ensures secure connections and corrosion resistance.
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Climbing protection for secure, lightweight ice placements, the Black Diamond Ultralights Ice Screw suits alpine and ice climbers. Lower pack weight and quick rackability reduce strain on long approaches. Do the available lengths and aluminium construction match the demands of your routes?

⚡ At a Glance
  • Holding Strength: Breaking load 10 kN for dependable anchorage in typical ice placements
  • Best for: Alpine and ice climbers who prioritise light, packable protection
  • Not ideal for: Users who require stainless-steel screw bodies or very heavy-duty screw options

Available in lengths from 13 cm to 22 cm with an aluminium screw body and forged aluminium express flap. Weight varies by length, with a clear 10 kN breaking load rating for planning protection.


Easy to carry long routes - with aluminium construction

Screw body made from aluminium and an express flap forged from aluminium keep unit mass low, with weights listed between 74 g and 96 g depending on length. Lower individual mass allows carrying several screws without excessive bulk.

Reduced pack weight makes hauling multiple screws practical on long approaches and multi-pitch climbs.

Adaptable placements - with multiple length options

Lengths available at 13 cm, 16 cm, 19 cm and 22 cm let climbers choose a screw matched to ice thickness and quality. Selecting the correct length helps maximise thread engagement in varying ice layers.

Choosing the right length improves placement security on thin ice shelves and deeper ice ribs.

Clear safety metric for anchors - thanks to 10 kN breaking load

Breaking load specified as 10 kN, providing a quantified tensile strength for each screw under standard testing parameters. The rating supports consistent decision making when building belays and anchors.

A known breaking load helps plan protection and assess margin for multi-point anchors.

✨ The 4 Key Reasons for Black Diamond Ultralights Ice Screw
  1. Forged aluminium express flap - Reliable attachment point for slings and quickdraws on belays
  2. Aluminium construction - Keeps each screw light for carrying multiple pieces comfortably
  3. Range of lengths - Match screw length to ice thickness quickly on steep climbs
  4. Clear breaking load rating - Allows confident anchor planning under known strength metric
📋 Technical Details at a Glance
  • Category: Sports - Ice protection
  • Brand: Black Diamond
  • Material: Aluminium screw body, forged aluminium express flap
  • Length options: 13 cm, 16 cm, 19 cm, 22 cm
  • Weight by length: 74 g (shortest) to 96 g (longest)
❓ Frequently Asked Questions

Q: What lengths are available?

A: Lengths are 13 cm, 16 cm, 19 cm and 22 cm, so placements can match differing ice thicknesses.

Q: What is the rated breaking load?

A: Breaking load is specified at 10 kN for each screw.

Q: What materials are used in construction?

A: Screw body is aluminium, and the express flap is forged aluminium.

🏆 Our Verdict

The Black Diamond Ultralights Ice Screw suits alpine and ice climbers who need low-weight, reliable anchoring options on long routes. Lightweight aluminium construction, a forged aluminium express flap and a 10 kN breaking load give practical carry and clear performance metrics. Although purchase choices vary, durable materials and low mass promise good long-term value for regular mountaineering use.