Climbing protection engineered to trim rack weight and improve placement stability, DMM Halfnut Set. More confident placements reduce faff on long routes and make trad climbing less stressful. Are the alloy choices and weight savings the right trade-off for your rack?
⚡ At a Glance
- • Placement Security: Reduced width and shaped faces give extra protection options and aid stability in shallow placements
- • Best for: Trad climbers who favour a lighter rack and need reliable passive protection in narrow cracks
- • Not ideal for: Climbers who require bulkier, full-bodied protection for wide or flaring placements
Alloy choices balance durability and bite across sizes, with harder small sizes and softer larger sizes. Hollow extrusion and thinner cable designs reduce mass, and combined 1–11 Halfnut sets are about 42% lighter than equivalent Wallnuts.
Lightweight Rack - With hollow extrusion and dual thinner cable on sizes 8–11
Hollow extrusion removes internal material from the nut bodies and the 8–11 sizes use a dual thinner cable to lower mass while retaining shape. Single cable construction on sizes 1–7 also reduces weight where appropriate.
Significant rack weight reduction makes long approaches and multi-pitch routes less tiring. Carrying more protection without extra bulk becomes practical.
Improved Bite on Rock - Thanks to softer alloy in sizes 5–11
Sizes 5–11 use a softer alloy formulated to increase bite into natural rock surfaces, while sizes 1–4 use a harder alloy to resist shearing. Size 7 also features scooped faces to save weight without changing taper angles.
Larger sizes conform better to rock irregularities for a more secure hold in marginal placements. Small sizes retain tougher faces to resist sharp-edge stresses.
Rack Compatibility and Quick ID - With same taper and colour-matched shrink tube
Halfnuts keep the same taper angles and side profile as DMM Wallnuts and use colour-matched shrink tube for each size. The matching colour scheme mirrors Wallnut identification conventions.
Seamless integration with an existing Wallnut-led rack avoids learning new placement geometry. Fast size recognition speeds up gear selection on steep or exposed ground.
✨ The 4 Key Reasons for DMM Halfnut Set
- Hollow extrusion & dual thinner cable - Reduces overall rack weight for easier approaches and longer climbs
- Colour-matched shrink tube - Allows instant size identification at a glance on steep terrain
- Same taper and side profile as Wallnuts - Ensures seamless compatibility with existing Wallnut placements and techniques
- Scooped faces on size 7 - Reduces weight while maintaining holding geometry in thin placements
📋 Technical Details at a Glance
- Type: Halfnut set
- Brand: DMM
- Set sizes: Assorted 8–11
- Material / Alloy: Sizes 1–4 harder alloy; sizes 5–11 softer alloy
- Construction: Hollow extrusion on larger sizes, single cable on 1–7
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Are sizes 8–11 made from a softer or harder alloy?
A: Sizes 5–11 are made from a softer alloy to improve bite, so sizes 8–11 use the softer alloy described.
Q: How do Halfnuts compare in weight to Wallnuts?
A: Combined 1–11 Halfnut sets are about 42% lighter than equivalent Wallnuts, reflecting the hollow extrusion and cable choices.
Q: How easy are the sizes to identify on the rack?
A: Colour-matched shrink tube is used for easy identification and matches the same colour coding as Wallnuts.
🏆 Our Verdict
The DMM Halfnut Set suits trad climbers who want to shave weight from their rack while maintaining reliable passive protection, especially in shallow or narrow placements. The combination of alloy choices, reduced width and hollow construction delivers measurable weight savings and versatile placement options. Although aimed at serious trad users, the durability and compatibility with Wallnuts make it a practical long-term addition to a committed climber's rack.
