Climbing protection for trad routes designed to give secure placements in narrow cracks. The DMM Wallnut Set helps climbers feel more confident on runouts by focusing on reliable passive protection. Are the alloy heads and galvanised steel cables the right match for a lightweight, dependable rack?
⚡ At a Glance
- • Holding Strength: Sizes 1–6 carry rated strengths from 7kN up to 12kN (size 1: 7kN; size 2: 9kN; size 3: 11kN; sizes 4–6: 12kN)
- • Best for: Climbers placing passive protection on trad routes who need compact nut sizes
- • Not ideal for: Situations that require active camming devices or rapid single-handed placements
Set covers sizes 1–6 with specified placement ranges for each size. Strength ratings span 7kN to 12kN across the size range.
Secure placements – with alloy heads matched to size-specific geometry
Alloy heads are formed to fit defined placement ranges for sizes 1–6: size 1: 6.7 / 14.3mm, size 2: 8.1 / 15.8mm, size 3: 9.4 / 16.5mm, size 4: 11 / 17.6mm, size 5: 13.2 / 19.4mm, size 6: 15.6 / 22.6mm. Geometry and head profiles help seat each size consistently in corresponding cracks.
Consistent sizing makes it easier to find a secure seat in narrow to medium cracks, improving placement confidence on lead.
Predictable load handling – thanks to clear kN strength ratings
Each size carries a specified strength: size 1 is rated 7kN, size 2 is 9kN, size 3 is 11kN and sizes 4–6 are rated 12kN. Those graded kN values indicate the maximum static loads for each size.
Knowing exact ratings helps choose the right nut for anchors or protection, allowing measured decision-making when building gear placements.
Lightweight rack options – with low claimed set weight for smaller sizes
Claimed weight for sizes 1–6 is listed as 6oz, while other groupings in the data show higher weights for larger ranges. The combination of compact heads and thin cables keeps overall mass down.
Lower carry weight makes bringing multiple sizes practical on long approaches without compromising rated strength for each size.
✨ The 4 Key Reasons for DMM Wallnut Set
- Fine size increments – Six sizes provide close-stepping for safer, more exact placements
- Very light set weight – Claimed 6oz for sizes 1–6 reduces carry burden on approaches
- Alloy head and galvanised cable – Combines low mass heads with tough steel cabling for reliable connections
- Clear placement ranges – Size-specific millimetre ranges help match nuts to narrow and medium cracks
📋 Technical Details at a Glance
- Category: Trad climbing protection
- Brand: DMM
- Product ID: B09T3RZKPB
- Head material: Alloy
- Cable material: Galvanised steel
❓ Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Are these nuts suitable for trad climbing placements?
A: Yes. The activity is listed as trad climbing and the sizes and placement ranges target narrow to medium cracks.
Q: What materials are used for heads and cables?
A: Heads are alloy and the cables are galvanised steel, as specified in the product description.
Q: Which sizes are included in the set labelled 1–6?
A: The set includes sizes 1 to 6 with placement ranges: 1 = 6.7 / 14.3mm, 2 = 8.1 / 15.8mm, 3 = 9.4 / 16.5mm, 4 = 11 / 17.6mm, 5 = 13.2 / 19.4mm, 6 = 15.6 / 22.6mm.
🏆 Our Verdict
Suitable for trad climbers who want a compact rack of passive protection for narrow to medium cracks. The set’s size-specific placement ranges and graded strength ratings make selection straightforward on route. Lightweight construction and durable materials suggest good long-term value for a minimal carrying weight.
